A few months ago I visited the Holy Land for a couple of weeks in the company of Fr Nick King
S.J., Fr Henry Wansborough O.S.B. and a group of Oxford students.
This is the account of the pilgrimage.
I was taken to Luton Airport, a place nearly undiscovered by
civilization, no signposts on the road but plenty of people to ask. I think I
stopped more than eight times to find the way to the airport terminal. I
arrived three minutes before Mass began. At the airport chapel there were eight
students from different colleges in Oxford and two priests as well who were
about to begin the Mass. Of course, there were some students missing because
not all of us were Catholics. In the group of 14 Oxford students, some belonged
to the established church. Mass began. Brother Cuthbert, a monk from St Louis
in America read the first reading and I read the Psalm. Fr Henry Wansbrough
read the Gospel and Fr Nicholas King was principal celebrant: it was the
Solemnity of Saints Peter and Paul.
The time came. We all gathered together ready to fly over to
the Holy Land. In the plane I sat by a Canadian student who was working on a
thesis at Oxford on the hermits of the fourteenth century who were inspired by
St Augustine of Hippo. We spent a good time talking about this subject
and at other times on monasticism and on French and English influence in
Canada. Suddenly a voice came from the cabin saying: “Get ready, we shall soon
be arriving at Tel Aviv Airport”. Of course, the voice also spoke in Hebrew. I
was fascinated by the sound of the language – The only word I know in this
language is “shalom” – It was, indeed, an amazing experience because it was basically
the same language spoken by Abraham, Moses, Elijah, and the main figures in the
Old Testament. It was a foretaste of what we were all to experience when we
landed.
At the arrival we all were led to the hired minibuses that
would be with us throughout the whole trip. We went right to Galilee. On the
way I was amazed at the signposts on the road because they were written in
three languages: Hebrew, Arabic and English. It made up for the lack of
signs in Luton. It was already dark, something like 7:00 pm in Israeli time –
two hours ahead of England – when we passed by Magdala towards the Sea of
Galilee. I could not see much of the town, but I had a feeling of actually immersing
myself in the Scriptures, as though I were going to meet Jesus at home.
Historically, there are two thousand years between us, but faith makes
us contemporaries. We arrived at the hostel, and after dinner we all gathered
by the Sea of Galilee to introduce ourselves to the group and to get know each
other better.
The water of the sea is sweet and the temperature is at this
time over 33 C,too warm for a really refreshing swim. People say that there are
twenty-two species of fish founded in the lake, therefore the industry of
fishing is important, as much as it was in the time of Jesus. Swimming in the
sea of Galilee, scenes from the gospel came through my mind. After the
resurrection Peter jumped from the boat to meet the risen Christ announced by
John. It was the same place, the same sea in which God made his miracles and
went from one side to another. It was the land of the Lord and our
encounter with God made man on earth!
We stayed in Galilee three days. First of all we went to a
ruin of Solomon’s fortress which had been a military border. Then we moved to
Caesarea Philippi. Here I saw a huge rock through which seeps water from the
river Jordan. Here we read the quotation of Scripture in which Jesus calls
Peter “rock”. This place immediately made sense of the text and what Jesus said
about Peter. Then we moved to Hermon Stream. The Banias waterfall is ten metres
high and the typical vegetation includes laurel and figs. It is here where I
remembered the Psalm 133 that we sing in the office: “It is as if the dew of
Hermon were falling on Mount Zion” on the goodness and pleasure of God’s people
living in unity.
Then we moved to Tabgha, where the miracle of the five
loaves and two fishes took place, with the intention to celebrate Mass
there, but it was closed at the time we arrived. Capernaum was our next stop.
Here, I first saw the Church of Peter’s Primacy, or Mensa Christi – the Table
of Christ. After seeing the shore we read the passage in which Jesus showed
himself to his disciples after the resurrection at the sea of Tiberias when
they ate together on the shore, as is written in John 21:1. Capernaum was also
the place where Jesus first met his first disciples – Peter, Andrew, James,
John and Matthew. Then we went to see Peter’s wife’s mother’s house. All the
houses were similar to one another. The roof is not as high as I thought. In
fact, it would have been easy to remove the roof and to lower a sick person in
front of Jesus, as we read in the Gospel. Then we went to see the remains of a
first century synagogue thought to be that in which Jesus preached, which was
very close to the town. There I also found some very interesting ruins of the
ancient synagogue in which were depicted Jewish symbols and scenes, like, for
example, the famous carriage carrying the Holy Ark of the Covenant.
Our next stop was Bethsaida, the home town of Philip, Andrew
and Peter. The name beth-tsaida means "house of fishing". Then,
we went to Mount Tabor where Jesus was transfigured, the highest mountain of
the area. From a distance I could appreciate its beautiful shape and I felt awe
and wonder. From there one can see Nazareth, Samaria and Galilee. I could
not stay for a longer period because there was another group waiting to
celebrate Mass and our time was reduced to a few minutes. I could not even see
the Benedictine ruins built at the time of the Crusaders. Now it belongs to the
Franciscans. Apart the Basilica they have built a large monastery and a
hospice.
After lunch-picnic made of pita-bread, tomatoes and other
vegetables, we went to Megiddo to see a ruin of Solomon’s stables together with
some buildings dated around the time of King Jeroboam II (8th century BC). We
were on the “mountain of Megiddo” that is the meaning of the word “Armageddon”.
Again, this word reminded me of Rev. 16:16 that refers to the place of
the battle to end all wars. Then, we went to Sepphoris, north-west of Nazareth,
an archaeological legacy that shows Assyrian, Hellenistic, Judean, Babylonian, Roman,
Byzantine, Islamic, Crusader and Arabic cultural influences. There we went to
the Synagogue of the fifth or sixth century BC. We also went to the Roman
Villa in which I found the mosaic floor of the very well known "Mona Lisa
of Galilee". The mosaic, for the most part, is devoted to Dionysus, god of
wine, and of socializing. He is seen along with Pan and Hercules in several of
the 15 panels.
After eating our traditional “picnic” with pita bread,
vegetables and humus, we then went to Acre, a Crusades’ port which was one of
the best harbours of the eastern shore of the Mediterranean, important as a
military and commercial port. Akko, as it was first called, is a very
ancient place and was very important strategically until Herod the Great
founded Caesarea in the 10BC. We all went into the great Mosque which the
Muslims rulers built in XVIII - XIX century over Christian ruins. In fact this
area was the place where the Knights of St John used to live. We visited this
fortress that seems to be all in Turkish, and I even I was invited to take a
Turkish bath. We were in a hurry; otherwise I would probably have had time to
experience that relaxing therapy. We went into the fortress and the
incredible and magnificent building of the Knights Hospitallers was truly
amazing. The cloister, dormitory and refectory were huge.
Back in the minibus, we started on our journey to our next
stop: Nazareth. We travelled on to the city where many miracles took
place. I heard that in the synagogue of Nazareth one can find the book in which
Jesus learned his ABC and a bench on which he sat with other children, but I
couldn’t find them. After unpacking our cases in the convent of Sisters of
Nazareth, we went to the Basilica of the Annunciation. The modern massive
basilica can be seen from anywhere in the town. In the front, above the gates
are those words in Latin central to my faith: “The Word became flesh, he lived
among us” (John 1:14). I was very touched by that experience of being in the
place where God became man, especially because my monastery in Peru is
dedicated to “The Incarnation”. I entered into that modern basilica and I
focused my view in the sunken area round the Grotto of the Annunciation. In the
front of the altar it is written: “Verbum Caro Hic Factum Est.” I prayed
intensively for a few minutes with an image in my mind of an icon I saw some
time ago. Then, from the basilica we went to the Greek Orthodox Church of St
Gabriel, also known as Mary’s well; but sadly it was closed at that time. Back
to the convent where we stayed, one of the sisters took us down below the
ground under the convent. We saw a sepulchre, from the first century,
similar to that in which Jesus was buried. I was impressed by the size of the
rock that shuts the mouth of the grave. A round flat stone, no more than 1:50
cm height. Entering through the hole into the chamber, we saw three
tombs, excavated inside the rock to give space for one person. We could not stay
more than three minutes. It was the first time I have seen a first century
tomb, probably as a preamble to what I was going to experience in Jerusalem.
And evening passed and morning came. We were prepared to
move to Caesarea Maritima. In the Acts of the Apostles it is mentioned
that Caesarea was first introduced to Christianity when Peter baptized
Cornelius the Centurion, his household, and his soldiers. Caesarea is an
ancient and extraordinary place, especially for me because I was brought up on
the coast of Peru. We went to the harbour built by Herod the Great about 25-13
BC. I heard that after the destruction of Jerusalem in 70 AD, Caesarea was the
provincial capital of the Judaea Province. The harbour was very impressive
because it is the largest artificial harbour built in the open sea. The floor
mosaics again were exquisite. One of them is decorated with animals, geometric
shapes, animals and trees, forming a beautiful picture. . Another mosaic
depicts obedience to the authorities, and a Latin inscription calls us to
remember the words of St Paul in Romans 13,3 : “Would you have no fear of the
one who is in authority? Then do what is good.” A good thought for a monk, I
thought. Then, we went to see first the hippodrome and then the remains
of the Roman Theatre, the Foundations of the City wall from the Early Islamic
Period (9th-11th AD .), followed by a break of relaxation in a “gelateria”,
tasting a delicious ice cream, no more expensive than 20 shekels, of course.
Then we went to the remains of the ancient Roman aqueduct, under which we had
our usual “picnic”. Then we went swimming. I can say that the Mediterranean Sea
is very clean and clear, a nice place to enjoy swimming under a blue sky and
radiant sunshine.
Back in Nazareth, having thanked our Sisters of Nazareth, we
moved to Fauzi Azar Inn, a guest-house near by to spent our last night in
Nazareth. We went to see a first century synagogue. Then, after Mass that we
joyfully celebrated everyday, followed by dinner, all gathered together for our
usual discussion on the things we had experienced during the day. We also
celebrated Fr Nicholas Kings’ birthday, much to his surprise.
And evening passed and morning came. We got up early to have a typical
breakfast which I enjoyed very much, especially with fried eggs and mint.
After breakfast, we went to the Monastery of Lady Mary at Tell Istaba,
near Bet She’an, in which one can appreciate the wheel of the zodiac on the
floor mosaic. It combines the representation of figures of the Old Testament
like Sarah and Isaac, and in the centre a large Zodiac with the names of the
months written in Hebrew. Having arrived at the ancient city of Bet She’an in
the Jordan Valley, Fr Henry Wansbrough and Nicholas King showed us the
archaeological places like the theatre and the Roman baths and bathhouse
toilets, the ruins of Silvanus Street built first by the Romans and then
repaved in the Byzantine period (sixth century AD.) but then destroyed in the
earthquake of 749.
We, then, went to the Greek Orthodox Monastery of St
Gerasimus, which is known to being one of the oldest monasteries in Palestine.
Saint Gerasimus lived in the fifth century A.D. and was known for his
austerity and prayer which he practised in a Laura as a hermit. A story tells
how St Gerasimus of Jordan became a friend of a lion by removing a thorn from
its paw. A cave in this monastery was known by tradition as the place where
Mary, Joseph and Jesus found refuge during their flight from Herod.
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In the afternoon we all went to stay in Jerusalem at “Maison
d’Abraham”, which had been a Benedictine monastery. From the terrace one can
admire the old city of Jerusalem, which is only a few minutes’ walk from the
house. It was evening and personally I was exhausted after the very demanding
walk up the Qumran Mountain. After dinner and some clothes washing, we all went
to the city for first time. I remember passing by the Old City Walls and the
original steps that Jesus and his disciples used every time they went to the
Temple.
Walking inside the Holy City, I stopped at the point when I saw a good number
of Orthodox Jews wearing large circular black hats, long black coats, black
trousers and hair ringlets which swung in some in front of their face,
sometimes were tucked behind their ears. They were coming and going to the
Western Wall built by Herod in 20 B.C. It was an admirable and moving the
way the Jews prayed so faithfully.
Early in the morning, on next day, I went to the Mount of Olives with the
Garden of Gethsemane. There are found a good number of very old trees. We went
into the Church of Gethsemane also call “the Church of all Nations” and we
prayed there, looking at the rock on which it is believed that Jesus prayed. I
imagined how easy it could have been for Jesus to run away from the soldiers
and the Jews who wanted to arrest him. He could have easily left the place by
the other side of the mountain towards his friends in Bethany, but we know the
story. In this moment there I meditated on Christ suffering, not only for the
crucifixion, but also for the desolation he experience staying alone, without
his friends.
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As was the custom, the next morning, we began our walk towards the city of Jerusalem by way of the pool of Bethesda. Walking through the market alongside the city, it was clear to me he differences between Jews and Arabs. You cross a line and you can see a different style of clothes and souvenirs, among other things. Nonetheless, they try to live together here. I was in a hurry because the group needed to meet outside the market. Leaving the city wall, I looked back and I saw the main entrance of the Old City of Jerusalem, Damascus Gate, a magnificent gate built in the XVI century A.C. Beneath it and in a side remains a Roman gate, expanded by Adrian and that served as the main entrance to the city in the first century. Then, in the free time – two hours maximum – I went to see the well-known German Benedictine Abbey of the Dormition, located on top of Mount Zion, commemorating the "falling asleep of Virgin Mary. I went down to the crypt. It holds a good number of small chapels covered with beautiful mosaics. Among the other chapels, I was very impressed by the one at the end of a long pillared hall. It shows a mosaic of Mary sitting on a throne and with the twelve apostles standing to her right and left.
Having met the group, we all went to the place I have always desired to visit:
the Holy Sepulchre. The first thing that struck my mind and heart was the Stone
of Anointing where Jesus was placed after being taken down from the
cross. It is located a few metres inside the main entrance. On the wall, behind
and over the Stone of Anointing, there are mosaics in which are depicted scenes
of Jesus after his death, three moments: Jesus being taken down from the cross,
Jesus being anointed and Jesus being taken to the sepulchre. – It was very
precious moment in my pilgrimage, and I was deeply moved, all the more because
I am in the process of writing the “Epitáphios Thrēnos” icon – Then, we
all went up to Golgotha where Jesus was crucified. It was very crowded, and
hundreds of pilgrims wanted to kiss the rock where the cross was planted which
is located under the altar. Sadly, I could not stay longer there, and there
wasn't the opportunity to do so later. We then were taken down, underneath the
altar, to the Chapel of Adam where the Golgotha Rock is behind a window. The
rock has a crack that was produced, according to tradition, as a result of the
earthquake following the crucifixion of Jesus.
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After having crossed the border, we went to the Church of the Nativity, considered
to be the oldest continuously operating Christian church in the world. We had
Mass there in the crypt beneath. There Franciscan Friars provided us with
everything needed for the Eucharistic celebration. Finally, we went to buy a
few souvenirs, especially cribs made of olive wood. In the shop they told us of
the difficult situation they are living in at the moment and how so many people
are leaving the country to find a better place to live with their families.
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Coming back to earth, the next day the whole group went to Jericho. It was a
long walk from Jerusalem. On the way we read the Good Samaritan passage. I
realised that it was a very challenging decision for that Good Samaritan of the
parable to carry that sick person, because it really was a long, long distance,
a very hot day and without inhabitants nearby. On the way, we arrived at St.
George, a fifth century Orthodox Monastery. Very kindly, the monks offered us
some refreshments and biscuits and a very hot tea. In was an excellent place to
stay after our long walk through the desert. Some minutes later, we started
again our walk towards Jericho. On the way we met a friend who accompanied us
through the whole journey with his donkey. He had six brothers and sisters and
was a member of the Bedouin tribe. We were invited to his home and the family
offered us a glass of water, a very hot tea and friendly company. I experienced
how people can offer everything they have, just like the widow in the Temple.
Then, we continued our journey to Nebi Musa, an ancient Holy Muslim site
located on the side of the road from Jerusalem to Jericho. It is dedicated to
Prophet Moses who, according to Muslim tradition, is buried here. Inside were
rooms on two floors. In the centre of the cloister there were two wells which
supply water to the pilgrims. There is a mosque which was not opened to us. We
left the buildings, ready to go in the minibuses. I saw a camel right in front
of the vehicle. Everybody was in the bus, ready to go, and I felt a curiosity
to ride one. On the spur of the moment I asked Fr Henry to wait for me to
spend a few minutes on the camel. He agreed and I was able to ride it for the
first time in my life. It was a nice experience.
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From Petra we went back to Jerusalem in Israel to prepare everything to return
to England. In that very night, I went to see for the last time the city of
Jerusalem. Near the place where I stayed, there was a fight between two Arab
families for a territory. They were throwing stone at each other and burning
bushes around. A man came up to me, attracted by the noise. He told me that if the police arrived, these two families would probably
fight against the police. Well, I understood that even in the Holy City there
are disputes among men. It also was seen in the way Jews and Palestinians treat
each other. It shows that the earthly Jerusalem has a long way to go before it
mirrors the Jerusalem in heaven.
Finally and overall, the experience lived during these days in the Holy Land
have made a tremendous impact on my life as a Christian. It has renewed my
faith in the depth of my being and it has opened ways of understanding the
Scriptures, as I read, meditate and interact with God’s Word. This
experience will also help me in my future ministry as a priest in service of
the Church. I want to thank those who have been with me on my journey,
for their support and company and those who made my pilgrimage possible.
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